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Choosing the right digital SLR camera lens

The choice of the best digital SLR for Photography nature

It is quite true that no matter what computer you use - it's what you do with the camera that matters. However, there is no doubt that when you Walking through a thick forest in the center of Central America want to pack light. Although the Nikon D2x has the prestige of being prime minister Nikon PRO the camera, you can not find is the best option for their work nature.

One of the first things you should consider is how to use the images. Look for magazines that want to publish their work. Send "submission guidelines" and meet their minimum amount of mega pixels. The same is true for agencies value - look around and decide where you'd ultimately like to sell their work. Many organizations have published their presentation guideliens their websites. If you're more interested in learning and doing nature photography for his own pleasure, then of course buy the less expensive models. Nothing wrong with a camera that takes a 5 or 6 megapixel image. You can still extend it to poster size if you want a special print made.


Choosing the right
lenses

Unfortunately, no one can say that buying lenses or "how to build the system SLR ideal for nature photography. "Once again, depends on the types of photos to take, your personal preferences and the market in which you want to sell their image.

The great advantage of the Nikon is that you can use older lenses on your body. This allows much more freedom of choice and means that you can get major goals incredible surprisingly affordable prices.

I'll give you an example. One of my favorite lenses is a 300mm f4 manual focus lens quality from the 1970's. Nikon especially developed ED (Extra-low Dispersion) glass to provide color correction pricise optics. This special glass (not available at all Nikon lenses) provides crisp, clear resolution necessary for great pictures. The other advantage (at least for me since I usually hike to find wild life) is that it weighs less and small packages.

Another example - the AF 50 mm 1.4). It's actually a 80 mm in the body. That means it has a primary objective in 80 mm that can take pictures in darker settings. And because Nikon lenses their lenses has been improved from 50 mm from its inception as a company (including a Nikon 50 mm in all organs until well into the decade of 1980) is one of the best Nikon lenses. It's cheap, and 50 mm in a 35 mm camera is a kind of pooey. But 80mm digial camera is wonderful.

Enlargement - can use to your advantage

For wildlife photographers, in particular, the only advantage of running with any Nikon digital camera these days is the magnification factor. Instead to create a sensor the same size as a frame of 35mm film, Nikon and most digital SLR camera manufacturers decided to create a sensor that is period smaller than the standard 24x36mm oldest film models. Having a smaller sensor means that it will capture all the information in bottom left and right and up and structure. This may sound really bad ... but there is no need to worry about what has not been captured because the viewfinder is set so what you see is what optically capture the digital archive.

The result is that the camera multiplies the increase of all lenses. expansion Nikon (depending on the camera I use) is about 1.5x. That means that a target of 300 mm to 450 mm is magnified. This is great news for photographers wildlife. The only drawback is that wide angle lens (like a 17-mm wide angle becomes as a non-25.5mm wide angle lens. However, photographers landscape still has some options. I will reach a little.

Lenses - Pros and Cons

While I can not tell you the right to buy the lenses of your particualr needs ... I can give some comments and impressions about the particular lens I am using or have in the past.

Nikkor 10.5mm f2.8 Fisheye: I never thought as a specialized lens could provide me with the use of both. For more information, I wrote a small article about how to use a fisheye lens in nature photography athttp: / / www.naturestocklibrary.com/gallery/2472892

Nikkor 18-70mm f/3.5-4.5G ED-IF AF-S DX Zoom - This lens is good. I bought as a kit lens for a long time and served well for the widest range. I would like have saved pennies and bought a 2.8 which offers a wider range (as a 12 mm to 25 mm).

Tamron 17-35mm f2.8: This is a great lens, but, unfortunately, I bought it for a film camera and digital enlargement means that my body is not as useful in my photography at this time. I'm thinking of selling it (along with my other wide angle) and the purchase of a 2.8 that has a wider range so that you can do more to landscape photography.

AF Nikkor 50mm f/1.4D - This is the very objective that was discussed above. It's small, has a low price, lets you shoot in very dark and a 80mm on a digital camera. You really can not go wrong.

Nikon Nikkor 80-200mm ED AF Zoom f2.8D - This is an exceptional lens is maintained at 2.8 does not matter if you're shooting at 80 or 200 mm. Again, the expansion means that it is actually a 300 mm zoom. Zoom are great because you can adjust the focus distance depending on where the subject is. Not as big of issues that are always far away (such as macaws seen here), but really amazing wildlife such as deer docile. It also has a macro function that works wonders.

Nikkor 105mm f/2.8D AF Micro, Micro or 105 for short - This is probably the most widely used Nikon macro lens, probably because the lens can serve triple duty. First, photography is a macro lens and lets you take pictures at a reproduction ratio of 1:1 (in a body 35 mm), which means that 24 to 36 mm of subjects will fill the entire frame. Secondly, it is a general purpose, very good short telephoto. Thirdly, it is also at least a reasonable portrait lens (although, with an increase may be too much of a telephoto lens of a digital SLR camera.) I love this lens for photography macro.

Nikkor 300mm f4 manual focus - While a "first" Objective provides the flexibilty of a zoom ... remains an ideal option for best results in their work. This is the same lens discussed above and taking into account it costs only $ 350, is light and the focus is so smooth, it's one of my favorite lenses. Never leave home without it.

Nikkor ED 600mm f5.6 manual focus glass - Once again, I paid much less than this (which is actually a strong 900mm on a digital camera and also has the famous Nikon ED glass!) Because it is an older model and manual focus. I spent USD $ 1,599 - but consider that a newer model to go for at least $ 5.000 to $ 25.000, depending on the stop f. Some may argue that 5.6 is a little too close to an f stop but I think the telephoto compression means that I want to photograph a subject more than 900mm wide 5.6 (2.8 would make the approach too shallow at this time distance). Although ... to strengthen the subject 2.8 is magic!

In the past, also I used the Sigma 70-300mm 3.5-5.6 3.5-5.6 and the Tamron 200-400mm zoom both served well as affordable, while I was learning about photography. I have since sold to pay for the lenses I currently use.

Why I LOVE manual focus and Highly Recommended

I used to be terrified manual focus. In most autofocus lenses, the focus ring is small and difficult to use ... There are also somewhat easier than allowed only on the camera to focus work for you. I fear that it could not react fast enough for moving subjects and was not going to be as good as the autofocus of my camera. Now I see the error of my ways.

Wildlife (or people) who want to make sure the main subject's eyes in perfect focus. You may not sell any image if the eyes are not focused. If you shoot a subject 10 feet away in 2.8 and use autofocus, the camera choose the object closest to the camera (usually the nose, cheeks, forehead and eyes ... not the eye itself). An aperture of 2.8 means that you have depth of field soft eyes look out of focus. The biggest (and most affordable) manual focus lenses have the most beautiful ring you've been focusing. I find it much easier to use manual focus on my 300mm f4 lens of the 1970's my newest AF 80-200mm zoom (using the AF). Unfortuately, I think the focus ring in the new models pooey a little bit ... but I wanted to do in the case of why I think the focus lens manual for the 1970 are the greatest things since sliced bread!


Subjects gold standard for fast

You may already be aware that the shutter speed must be at least equal to the distance of your goal. For example, you need at least 1/300th of a second if using a 300 mm lens or shake hands to make the image look really blurry. And something bigger than 300 mm should be placed on a tripod (preferably one with a head ball for wildlife work.) With the expansion, which may be able to get away with a throw of 300 mm (450 mm digital camera) on hand ... in 1/450th of a second or more ...) in a hurry ... but investing in a good ball head tripod really improve performance if your goal is greater than 300 mm.

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